Review of Chef Edna: Queen of Southern Cooking, Edna Lewis

Chef Edna: Queen of Southern Cooking, Edna Lewis Chef Edna: Queen of Southern Cooking, Edna Lewis
by Melvina Noel; illus. by Cozbi A. Cabrera
Primary    Cameron/Abrams    32 pp.
4/23    9781951836399    $18.99

Chef Edna Lewis (1916–2006) brought Southern cooking to the forefront of American cuisine. Growing up in Freetown, Virginia, a place founded by her grandfather and other formerly enslaved people, Edna helped Mama Daisy make meals. With fresh fish in spring, summer garden vegetables, sweet potatoes in fall, and biscuits year-round, Edna and her mother fed their family and community. When she was fifteen, Edna moved to New York, working odd jobs such as typing and answering phones to help support her family. Her work as a seamstress was what got her noticed, however, and she was soon designing and sewing clothes for celebrities. As her star rose in the social circles of New York, she began to host and cater parties using Mama Daisy’s recipes, and her food became as famous as her dress designs. She eventually opened her own Manhattan restaurant, where socialites wondered which culinary school in Paris she’d attended. “Her Paris was Freetown, the flavors of home passed down from one generation to the next.” Noel makes frequent use of fragmented sentences to punctuate the methodical effort of Edna’s work (“Ironing. Cleaning. Cooking. Sending the money she earned back home”). Cabrera’s vivid paintings are equally at home depicting the glamour of New York society and the closeness of Freetown’s community. Appended with an author’s note, additional resources, and a recipe for biscuits.

Pubissue-From the July/August 2023 issue of The Horn Book Magazine.

Eboni Njoku
Eboni Njoku is a children’s librarian at the Anacostia Neighborhood Library Branch of the DC Public Library.

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